Merrily we Roll Along

Happy Holidays!

Happy Christmas, Frohliche Weinachten, Blessings at Solstice, and a very belated Happy Hanukkah.

Tomorrow we will be leaving for Montreal. We’ll be on the road before sunrise to maximize on daylight hours. Our first stop is Ottawa, where we will spend a couple of days to shop, see an English movie or two, and visit with Andy’s daughter who just received her Master’s designation.

It does look like Christmas here. The village is lit up with festive lights. I’m glad I put aside a small box of ornaments aside when we moved here. We found our tree in the forest, while trying out our new snowshoes. After we cut it down, we realized how sparse and lopsided it was, but didn’t have the heart to take down another one. After it was decorated, it didn’t look quite so sad.

It is cold enough for the lake to have frozen over. At night, the lake is dotted with lights, like fireflies as the skidoos careen back and forth. We’ve been dressing in many layers of clothes. Both of us have big mitts sewn out of moose hide by Cree women of the community, which fit over regular mitts.

The new year brings new adventures as Andy’s next teaching job will be in a fly-in community of Whapmagoostui Hudson’s Bay, at the mouth of the Great Whale River. This will be an interesting experience. My fear of flying is only exceeded by my fear of bears, and there are polar bears up where we are going.

We send our warmest greetings and hope the New Year brings good health and happiness to our friends and loved ones.

The Long and Winding Road to Chibougamau … with Phil.

We picked up Phil on the way to Chibougamau to attend an evening of music and dining organized by a group of teachers. It was cold, so very, very cold. He stood at the intersection of 167, at the cut-off to Mistissini, waving a flashlight.

We stopped and I rolled down the window. He is freezing, his facial hair crusted with ice whiskers.

Here is the conversation:

Me:  Where you going?

Phil:  To town. To Chibougamau.

Me:  Come on, get in.

Phil:  I’m Phil. Who are you?

We introduce ourselves.

Phil:  It’s cold. Thank you for stopping.

Me:  No problem.

Phil:  I’m Phil. What are our names?

We reintroduce ourselves.

Phil:  What do you teach?

Andy:  I teach cabinet making.

Phil:  What grade do you teach (to me).

Me:  I am not a teacher. I am here with Andy.

Phil:  So what grade do you teach?

(Repeat previous conversation)

Phil:  I’m Phil and what are your names?

This conversation went on for the rest of our car ride.

Phil:  Can I open my pop?

Me:  Sure, go ahead.

(sound of pop can opening, only it smelled not like pop, but like beer)

A few more rounds of introductions ensued and questions of what we teach.

Phil:  I’ve gotta piss.

Me:  Andy, stop the car, Phil has to pee.

We stop the car.

Andy (to me):  It’s going to be a long, long, ride into Chibougamau.

Phil (tapping my shoulder). Do you smoke?

Me:  No, I don’t and there’s no smoking in the car. Andy has Asthma.

Phil:  Oh.  You don’t smoke?

He asked us repeatedly if we smoked, as he obviously wanted cigarettes, and repeatedly, we told him no.

We surmised that Phil lives alone at camp, where he says he likes to be alone and drink.  His plans were to go into Chibougamau and to buy beer and hitch back to his camp to drink it.

We stopped in front of the Bistro at Chibougamau as he requested.

Before getting out of the car, he shook our hands again and introduced himself and asked our names.

We then watched Phil stagger across the street to the Depanneur, presumably to buy cigarettes and beer.

Winter is Coming!

It is cold already and it is only the beginning of December – 27 (-37 factoring in the wind-chill).

It takes time to dress for this weather, but there is a system:  Bottom layers – Leggings, jeans, windproof pants, inner socks and outer socks. Top layers – thick sweater over thin sweater, microfiber hooded parka, hat, inner mitts and outer mitts. When we mentioned our impending move to Whapmagoostui at yesterday’s feast, a couple of people shivered and said “It’s cold up there!”

I googled a climatic map of Canada and zoomed to the mouth of the Great Whale River on Hudson’s Bay. A thin sliver of land that surrounded this area is classified as “arctic”.

Now I’m seriously worried.  If the Cree from Mistissini say it’s cold up there, it must be really cold!

Inuksuk – Little Men of Stone

 

Photographed at Pacific Rim Park

Like many suburban gardeners, I’ve always been fascinated by inuksuks, the traditional Inuit statues, stones jutting out at the sides vaguely representing a human form.

Last night, we mentioned that we would be moving up to Whapmagoostui and the neighbouring Inuit community of Kuujjuarapik. After discussing how cold it is up there, someone at the table mentioned that we’d be seeing inuksuks. I’ve always been curious what they signified.

From what we gathered from last night’s conversation, there are two kinds. The traditional ones, with flailing arms are actually human representations used to herd caribou for hunters. The caribou mistake the stone towers for humans and follow the path designed for them.

Other stone piles are markers. Bending down and looking through an opening, the next structure can be seen. This is clearly a direction marker.

When I have a garden again one day, I will build an Inuksuk, but this time I will understand its significance.

Bear Head on a Platter – Teeth and Bones

We were invited to a feast at the Traditional Cree Fishing & Chisheinuu Chiskutamaachewin Project, also known as Murray’s Lodge, named after its director. This is where elders of the community pass down cultural knowledge and skills to members of the community. The feast was a celebration of the upcoming festive season.

Skidoos and trucks were parked alongside the road, the lodges were brightly lit and warmed by wood stoves on that cold evening. In the dining lodge, people were squeezed together on benches at tables covered with bright plastic tablecloths.

One of Andy’s students, Robie, recognized us and waved us over and indicated a space across from him. The man beside me introduced himself as Matthew. Two towering plates heaped with several sorts of meat were placed in front of us. The dark meat on my plate appeared to be propped up by an orangey-yellow object. I tapped it with my finger. It definitely a beaver’s tooth.

Matthew showed me a piece of meat he was chewing.

“Guess what this is?” he asked.

“Looks like beaver tail,” I tell him. He appeared quite impressed by my answer and was happy to converse with me for the rest of the meal.

Soon foot-long moose ribs were passed around.

“Looks like at the Flintstones,” Andy whispered to me.

How long could I hold out before confessing my inclination towards vegetarianism?

“I don’t eat much meat,” I tell Robie. “Would you like my beaver?”

“Sure!” he said, and grabbed a good chunk.

Suddenly a large grinning bear head on a platter appeared in front of me. At first I thought it was a boar head, as depicted at medieval feasts, but there wasn’t an apple in its mouth.

“You can’t take a piece,” Robie told me. “A man, like your husband, has to cut some for you.”

“It’s OK sweetie,” I tell Andy. “You have some.”

I grab my third Indian donut and another blueberry fritter. “Bannock, I think originated in Scotland,” I asked Robie, my mouth stuffed with bread.

“Oh, no,” he said. “We’ve always had bannock, from times way, way before.”

Robie questioned some elders sitting at our table. The conversation was in Cree, so he translated for us and explained that traditional bannock was made from dried fish meal and fish eggs.

The food stopped coming and someone appeared with a large roll of tinfoil, so the heaped plates of leftovers could be taken home. I grab another Indian donut.

I began to gather plates and bones, but was told to leave them.

“The bones will be taken outside,” Robie explained.

“For the dogs?”

“No, for respect” he said. “If we don’t do this, there will be no more hunt.

The bear’s head will go up in a tree.”

 

 

Walk Softly and Carry a Big Stick

I’ve been walking with dogs for a while now, usually with two or three … up to seven at a time, as I posted last February in “Andi of the Seven Dogs.”

Now I carry a big stick. I no longer greet dogs and offer my company on walks. I even walk past puppies, looking up at me pleadingly, holding up a frozen paw. I no longer let them snuggle in my lap for a few moments to warm their tiny feet. There is the danger that they will follow me to unfamiliar territory.

A few days ago when I was out walking, a couple of dogs I recognized bounded over to meet me. I greeted them and was about to continue on my way when an unfamiliar, large chocolate lab mix approached. He barked aggressively, head lowered, fur ruffled. Two more dogs joined the group. Suddenly, I was at the centre of a pack of dogs, barking and nipping at my mitts. Was this some instinctual, primitive hunting collective?

A man came out of a nearby house and walked down his driveway towards me.

“I am so sorry,” he said as he grabbed the lab.

“No harm done,” I said as I continued my way. Since that day, I’ve noticed this particular dog chained up by the house.

I am not afraid of dogs. My last dog was a 110 pound malamute, and before that, a collie-shepherd mix.

Then it happened again. Yesterday, I took a shortcut across a vacant lot. Two dogs, I recognized from my summer walks approached me; a Siberian husky with pale blue eyes and a husky-shepherd and maybe coyote mix.

They followed me, nipping at my mitts, playfully I thought at first. I continued along, but had the sensation of being stalked. When I turned, they were at my heels, single file, heads low, hackles up. They nipped at my mitts from behind. I waved my arms and spoke to them firmly and assertively to go away, but they just stood still and glared at me. I continued to walk and they continued to stalk. Then I felt teeth gripping my calf. Fortunately, I was wearing leggings under my jeans, and wind pants, otherwise the dog would have drawn blood. I admonished them again and they slinked off. This was clearly predatory behaviour. When a wolf takes down a moose or deer, they will go for the leg tendons first, to lame the animal before final kill. I am more angry than alarmed.

There are children playing in snow banks. Maybe this is why dogs are generally not acknowledged. Perhaps I was encouraging them by speaking to them kindly?

I stopped by the shop and tell Andy, who had warned me in the past about the village dogs. He found a cane for me to walk with.

Was it the sudden unseasonable cold? The muskrat fur on my mitts?

From now on, I walk softly and carry a big stick.

You Married a White Woman!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ynYwTU7z6BI

We live in a community where I am a visual minority, let alone blonde, of which I am told, there is only one other. I never thought much about what happened at yesterday’s feast, until someone posted a video on my facebook page.

Last night we met a man, who introduced himself as Harry.

Here’s the conversation:

Harry:  You’re not from here (he’s looking at Andy). You’re not native, are you?

Andy:  Yes I am, Anishinabe.

Harry:  From where?

Andy:  The Key Reserve in Saskatchewan. (Andy gives a short synopsis)

Harry:  And you married a white woman?

Andy:  Yes, this is Andi, my wife. Why don’t you ask her where she’s from (I have found that, older men especially do not address women directly)

Me:  Where do you think I’m from? (I lower my glasses so he can see me better)

Harry: I don’t know. You just look white. He flicked his hand at me and wandered off.

We chuckled about this on the way home. But now I wonder if I missed something.

Are we Elders yet?

Winnie, the head Chef

Our time left in community is short. The holidays are upon us, and we’ll be heading to Montreal soon to be with family. We want to enjoy the rest of our time and experience as much as we can. After February, our new home will be Whapmagoostui, on Hudson’s Bay.  It will be a new experience.  The community shares space with the Inuit settlement of Kuujjuarapik.  

We hadn’t been to Murray’s Lodge since last winter. There were a few attempts, but either the lodge was closed for the season, or another time, an elder had passed away and the lodge was closed for the funeral.

This time, when we arrived, the lodges were brightly lit and elders along with their trainers and helpers, were at work in the sewing and woodcarving lodges. At the medicine lodge, we picked up birch tea for Andy’s arthritis and Labrador tea, simply because I like the woodsy, slightly bitter taste.

A visit to the tanning lodge left us choking from the smoke. A caribou hide and moose hide were suspended and formed into long cylinders. The bottom of the tube opened on top of a metal pail of burning embers.

After our walk-around, we headed towards the dining lodge. Seasonal decorations of a birch log and greens adorned each table top.

An opening prayer was offered and people began to line up. We had placed ourselves near the back of the room and prepared ourselves to wait until the line had shortened.

Some of the people standing in line turned around to look at us and appeared to be waiting.

“No, you go,” a young man said, pointing to the front of the line.

“It’s OK, let the elders go first,” Andy told him.

I know you don’t become an elder because you are old. In the community, an elder is someone who can pass on knowledge of Cree culture and wisdom, as well as traditional knowledge of woodcarving, snowshoe making, cooking, sewing and sinew weaving.

“No, No, you go!” the young man replied.

“Andy, they think WE are elders,” I whisper.

We rise and a man came forward and introduced himself as the coordinator. He indicated to some of the people near the front of the line to make room for us and insisted that we take a plate and begin serving ourselves.

I ladled caribou stew into a paper bowl and filled a plate with moose steak, macaroni casserole and generous servings of Indian donuts (fry bread) and bannock. I also plucked a cube of what looked like turkey breast on my plate, but found out after that it was a cube of bear fat, a Cree delicacy.

The coordinator came to us again and introduced his wife.

“How were the ribs?” he asked Andy.

“Great!” Andy said.

He explained that they had used a new recipe for the moose ribs using soy sauce. We thanked him and kitchen workers for their delicious preparation.

And then he told us that it is tradition for honoured guests to go first in line, especially their first time at the lodge.

I was very relieved. I thought we were sent to the front of the line because we were considered old. There was a new spring in my stride as we walked towards the car to head home.

Heavy Machines go North

Heavy Machine Operator

Here is a recent article on Heavy Equipment Operation in the North to be published soon.  I spent the day on various construction sites. I wish I had worn my billy boots instead of sneakers!

It was still dark at 6:00 a.m. when Paul Paquette parked his white pickup truck in front of the Tim Hortons located at the Cree Nation of Mistissini. He did a quick headcount. All seven of his students were there, finishing breakfast or lining up for a coffee to go. This is where Paquette, instructor of the Northern Heavy Equipment Operations program, meets with his students from Monday to Friday.

Absenteeism has never been a problem for Paquette. “My students are always here, ready to work, and willing to do overtime when they’ve missed time. If they are late, they offer to do overtime even on weekends.”

The Northern Heavy Equipment Operations program, offered by the Sabtuan Adult Education Services of the Cree School Board, provides educational and training opportunities for adults living in Cree communities. At the completion of the program, graduates will obtain a diploma from the Ministère de l’Éducation du Québec. This will enable them to find work in the construction industry, mines, camps, or in the community. The popular program has a waiting list of 78 students and is considered one of the best employability programs.

The 900-hour-program takes place in a limited season and is dependent on weather conditions. Most learning occurs on-site.

When not outside, learning to operate heavy equipment, students are instructed in the basic principles of construction, road maintenance, maintenance of heavy equipment, as well as health and safety on construction sites. Theoretical learning constitutes 25% of the program

The week of October 7, 2013 students were working the morning shift, from 6:00 a.m. to noon. A parallel program runs from noon to 6:00, taught by Jacques Labelle. The weekly rotating schedule of the two courses maximizes the use of the heavy machinery.

Paquette spends most of his day driving from site to site to instruct and supervise his students, or just to offer encouragement and congratulations for a job well done.

Paquette’s first stop was at the home of Leonard Coon and Kimberley Shecapio-Coon, where a student, Nelson Trapper, operated a backhoe. Trapper’s job was to level the lot and remove stones in preparation for the laying down of topsoil and sod.

This type of on-the-job training benefits community and gives the students exposure.

At the inception of the program, on May 22, 2013, Paquette met the Cree School Board’s coordinator of vocational adult training, Luc Collette, to go over community work projects. Then Paquette chose those jobs which the students will benefit from most as part of the program.

Paquette’s team of students have worked on 18 different jobs since the beginning of the course.

At Trapper’s worksite, Paquette observed as his student stepped out of the backhoe and squatted on the ground, gaging the angle of the slope with his eye, to ensure that water would drain away from the house.

“I like that!” Paquette exclaimed, giving Trapper a ‘thumbs up.’ “For this job, you need a good eye for landscaping.” Paquette is pleased when his students take charge of a project and show responsibility.

Homeowner Coon watched as Paquette and Nelson planted surveying sticks for the next step. There is some urgency, as sod is due to arrive the next day.

“We are very happy with the work,” Coon smiled.

Paquette’s students work a rotating daily schedule on assigned machines so that each student has the opportunity to work in different mediums with different machines.

At a nearby camp, Wayne Voyageur reshaped a camp road with a grader.

Working with heavy equipment is new to Voyageur. He heard about the course while working at the Mistissini Lodge. Not only is he learning to operate heavy equipment, but also the routine maintenance such as changing air filters, water separators, and lubricating.

Voyageur’s objective is to have a better career to support his family.

At another worksite, Marcel Gunner is operating a 6 x 6 articulator, an off-highway truck.

Gunner has experience working in construction and has, as have other students, taken jobs in the community.

At a recent job, students cleared land for Jerry Matoush, owner of the community’s tire shop. Paquette explained that 114 loads of rocks and slashed trees were excavated.

When compensation was offered to the students, they teamed together to purchase jackets with SAES crest embroidered on, along with their names.

After giving further directions to Gunner, Paquette made a detour to the dry goods dump just outside of town. Neatly piled discarded appliances were the only indication of garbage. Paquette explained that this is a perfect place for students to practice their operating skills by digging holes and filling them with waste, and then piling gravel on top.

Paquette pulled out his cell phone to call student, Matthew Bullfrog. Bullfrog was working the loader that day. Paquette instructed him to load up the truck with topsoil and bring it to Trapper, who would level it in preparation for the grass that would be arriving the next day.

Paquette turned onto a road leading to a gravel pit, where Betsy Rabbitskin was filling a loader with gas from a parked service vehicle for that purpose.

The gravel for community projects comes from this quarry and is dynamited as needed.

Rabbitskin acted as observer for the day, since only six machines are available for the seven students.

As a child, Rabbitskin recalled how she liked to play with dolls and things, but also liked to play with her brother’s cars and trucks.

“I like them all,” she replied when asked if she had a favourite machine. “I knew I always had it in me that one day I will operate these machines.”

Richard Cooper was operating a bulldozer when Paquette stopped by to see his progress. Cooper’s day doesn’t end at noon. After his school day is over, he goes to work, resulting in 12-hour workdays.

Like Gunner, Cooper works for other companies as an operator. Paquette explained that when students work for contractors, and get paid directly, it works towards their stage.

At another camp, Linda Loon was creating a system of drainage ditches to aid nearby camps from spring snowmelt runoff.

Loon climbed down from the excavator she was operating that day and came forward to greet Paquette.

“Paul, I am so proud of myself,” she said pointing at a large boulder. “I got that rock out.”

“Good job!” Paquette called to her, holding out his arms as in a giant embrace.

Linda had called Paquette earlier, when she was experiencing difficulties with a rock that was stuck.

“I was afraid to tip over, so I did it slowly,” she explained.

Just before departing, Paquette advised Loon to make holes about 10 paces apart along the side of the road and plant uprooted trees. This would make the road more visible in winter and provide definition. He then added, “It will look nice, too”.

Like Gunner and Cooper, Loon has done work for Cree communities. At one of her jobs, she worked at the dump at a nearby community of Oujé-Bougoumou.

Paquette stopped at Bullfrog’s worksite. As instructed by Paquette twenty minutes earlier by phone, Bullfrog was loading a truck with topsoil to bring to Trapper.

Bullfrog admitted he was worried, at the onset of the course, about operating the machines and performing the required maintenance.

“But now it’s almost second nature. I feel very comfortable with the machines now,” he said. 

Bullfrog’s plan is to go outside the community to work 14 days on and 14 days off.  On his days off, he hopes to contribute to the community.

After completing the requirements of the program and obtaining their diploma, the students will register at the Commission de la construction du Québec (“CCQ”) towards certification required to work in the construction industry. They will obtain an apprenticeship card so their hours are logged in.

The CCQ has set conditions for hiring labor to which construction companies must comply. Graduates must complete 2,000 hours through training and/or work experience.

Of the 900 hours students have completed as part of the Northern Heavy Equipment Operations program, 165 hours of the SAES program are recognized towards these 2,000 hours and the graduates must make up the rest on the job.

The end result is a certificate attesting to their competence, Le certificat de compétence-compagnon, allowing them to work in the construction industry.

In 1997, the CCQ put forth new regulations to promote women’s access to the construction industry, as well as their maintenance and to increase their numbers in this field.

Rabbitskin and Loon agree that they have not experienced any obstacles in working non-traditional roles as women.

“People see me driving on the road and they go like this,” Loon said, gesturing a thumb-up sign.

Loon’s fascination with big machines began when she saw a woman operating a machine similar to the excavator she was operating that day.

She was surprized at first. “But then I looked and watched, and thought ‘I’d love to do that -operate machines!’”

Rabbitskin also feels that the community is proud of ‘us women’.

“They think it’s awesome, cool being a woman driving these things,” she said.

Job prospects are numerous.  The money may be good, working in mines and construction, but being away from the community, family, travel time to and from the work place and shift work can be definite drawbacks.

Some students, like Loon, would like to stay in the community to remain close to their families. By closer to home, they may be hired by the band counsel for snow removal, landscaping and regular maintenance.

Other students, such as Cooper and Gunner, realize that money is to be made working outside in mines or construction industry.

A Trade and the Training Process module was offered as part of the program to help students with their choices and job searches.

After finishing the program, Bullfrog hopes for find a job at a mine such as Diamond Mine Stornoway. “They’ve already offered jobs to students,” he said.

The students concur that Paquette is a dedicated teacher, who wants to help them succeed in every aspect of the program.

“Paul is a very good teacher,” Gunner said. “He’s interesting and I am learning a lot. He helps with everything. Only problem is that he’s a Habs fan,” he added.

Bullfrog admitted that he was first scared of the heavy equipment.

“Paul has showed me how to work with machines and I fell in love with them,” he said. “He’s funny and he uses analogues and makes things funny.”

On the way back to his original starting point at Tim Hortons, Paquette drove past the homeowner’s property where Trapper had been levelling the ground. Piles of topsoil had been unloaded by Bullfrog, ready to be prepared for tomorrow’s shipment of sod.

It was only noon and the student’s shift was over, but Paquette knew his seven students would be waiting for him tomorrow at 6:00 to start a new day.

Linda is happy to have removed a large boulder on her own.